Note: For the purposes of this instruction, Lane 1 is defined as the lane nearest the start lever.

Remove and set aside the start lever and its mounting hardware.

Remove and set aside the two small springs from the start gate.

Remove the upper joining bar at the top of the track.

Loosen the screws attaching the start gate to the track

Some masking tape or foam tape has been placed on the tips of the GRM rails.

The purpose is to ensure a snug, uniform pressure when the screws are tightened.

Slide the GRM against the start gate, and tighten the screws holding the start gate to the track.

Reinstall the upper joining bar at the top of track.

Reinstall the peg on Lane 1, passing the peg screw through Part A.

Reinstall the peg on the opposite side of the track, passing the peg screw through Part B.

For other lanes, pass the screw through a 1/16" thick aluminum washer as you reinstall. This will make all pegs the same height when you are finished.

Connect the brass pull rod between Part A and the outer hole of the brass crank of the GRM.

Use care in shaping the pull rod, so there are no kinks, or snags. Nice clean loops as shown in photo. Don't twist the wire around itself. Cut off excess brass.

Test the action by moving the crank manually. There should be no slack in the action. The pegs must retract fully from the top side of the track.

Adjust the set screw in the crank if necessary to perfect the action.

Mount the spring between Part B and the track, using the spring clip.

The spring tension should be adjusted to a minimum to get the job done. It can only be properly adjusted when the track is in final position, and cars are behind the pegs.

You may need to readjust if you run some lanes empty.

The GRM is a balancing act between the weight of the cars trying to open the gate, and the spring holding the pegs upright.

The GRM overcomes the balance, and away they go!